My wife caught me with her lasagna (and garlic bread). So I have a special place in my heart for it. Now that I’ve been married for a number of years, she makes it less often (apparently that’s how marriage works, no one warned me in advance), so I sometimes must look elsewhere for lasagna. It’s not cheating because she knows about it (and I think she’s relieved she doesn’t have to make it as often).

Unfortunately, there are only a few places where the lasagna is really delicious.

I’m glad I’ve found La Toscana, because it is one of them.

What a surprise! La Toscana is next to the freeway in San Rafael (across from the sublime Frank Lloyd Wright Marin Civic Center). It looks like some old-school Italian place for the early-bird crowd and I’d never even considered eating there.

Then the bass in my barbershop chorus ( suggested this for an after-show dinner, and eight of us went–and I’m glad we did!

The food is superb.

It starts with excellent sourdough bread–something that should be a staple in bay area restaurants–but isn’t. Your choice of olive oil and balsamic vinegar or butter.

I went with a party of 8, the service was fast and pleasant. Others in the party ordered the Carbonara (very good, though more buttery than creamy), salmon (excellent), soup (exceptional).

But my lasagna stands out as the second best lasagna I can get. The winner is my wife’s, of course.

Don’t be put off by the location or less-than-hip appearance, this is GREAT Italian food.